Tuesday, April 20, 2010

Peru Part I

Piura
We were up before the sun had risen and were off to Peru. We only had gotten 10kms or so when we noticed that the temperature gage was above its normal position, we pushed on for another five minutes and then had to pull over for fear of overheating the engine. We checked the coolant level, and looked for leaks but everything appeared to be normal. Stumped and not sure what to do we sat on the side of the road for twenty minutes and then tried again, we headed in the direction of Loja where we could find mechanics and some help. We drove slowly and stared at the temperature gauge all the way to the border, but thankfully the gauge remained where it should be. The road from Loja to the border was a nightmare, full of pot holes, rocks, farm animals and lots of windy passes, not to mention a thick milky fog that limited our vision to a few metres. We finally reached the super mellow border crossing at Macara and after an hour or so we were in Peru. Just before leaving the customs office on the Peruvian side our customs officer came out to ask us a favour, he needed a ride back to Piura and the bus didn’t come for another few hours, so he hopped in the back and we gave him a ride. We were a bit overwhelmed and shocked at the drastic change from Ecuador to Peru, the landscape changed immediately from lush tropical forests to dry barren desert. The extreme poverty level also made us feel a bit uneasy, these people have literally nothing, living in small shacks made of wicker and bamboo in the middle of the most inhospitable dessert. We still have no idea how they eat or get water. Once again we were reminded how lucky we are in life. Once we arrived in Piura we found ourselves a cheap hostel with air conditioning where we relaxed and cooled off while watching some Latin T.V. Besides the proximity to a casino and the prostitutes near the entrance it wasn’t a bad place. At this point Pete was way over due for a hair cut so we made use of a pair of clippers that a fellow backpacker had given us and gave Pete his first buzz cut....WOAH!! Then we went into town to enjoy a meal and watch a parade in the streets.

Huanchaco and Barranca
Since Piura was kind of a hole we were happy to leave and head to the beach town of Huanchaco. It was a long and hot drive through more desert which kept getting drier and more desolate the further south we went. In Huanchaco we found a hotel which offered poolside camping so we didn’t hesitate to stay there. Since it was Samana Santa (Easter weekend) the beach was packed with Peruvian tourists and it was a blast people watching. While cruising the beach we were called over to join some Peruvians who were drinking and dancing to some live music on the beach, “bienvenidos a Peru.” They grabbed our hands and started swinging us around. They really got a kick out of Karen shaking her gringo hips, hehehe. Huanchaco isn’t the most attractive beach resort but it was a nice place to relax for a couple of days after two hard, hot days of driving. From Huanchaco we made our way to Huaraz with a stopover in Barranca, another beach town with far less appeal.

Huaraz
So far on this trip we’ve driven numerous mountain passes and been up to high elevations but none compared to the drive up to Huaraz. From sea level we drove up to over 4000 metres in about 100kms. Up and up we went, snaking our way through hundreds of switchbacks until we finally reached the summit and caught our first views of the Cordillera Huayhuash .These beautiful snow capped mountains reach heights of over 6000 metres and were worth a stop to take in the view and snap a few photos. When we got out of van we realized that we lost a hubcap on the rough pot holed road. After backtracking for a few minutes we found it balancing on top of a rock waiting for us to retrieve it. The rest of the road down to Huaraz was in very poor shape with so many potholes that it was impossible to dodge them all and as it turned out we lost another hubcap on the way. Huaraz is an ugly city in an amazing setting with the Cordillera Blanca to the east and the Cordillera Negra to the west. Pre 1970’s Huaraz had some colonial charm but there was an earthquake which caused a huge piece of a glacier to fall into an alpine lake which spilled over its banks causing an enormous land slide that wiped out the city. We spent a couple of nights in the city preparing to head out on the famous Santa Cruz trek. The night before we went trekking there was a heavy hail storm which flooded the streets and left piles of hail all over the city. We were a little worried about what we were getting ourselves into because it was still the rainy season and it is known to rain heavily every afternoon.

Laguna 69 and the Santa Cruz Trek
Instead of just doing the Santa Cruz trek we decided to combine it with the Laguna 69 hike. We caught a colectivo to Yungay and then a beat up taxi up into the park and to the trail head of Laguna 69. Here we stashed all of our overnight gear in the bushes and then hiked up to the lake. We’ve both seen many glacial lakes but this one was gorgeous, surrounded by 6000m peaks with a large waterfall plummeting into it, breathtaking! When we got back to the campsite we found our stuff in the bushes, set up camp and cooked up some dinner before going to bed. The next morning we packed up and waited on the side of the road for a colectivo or bus to pass. Fortunately a 4x4 drove by and picked us up, agreeing to drive us to Vaqueria for the same price as the bus. The rough, dirt road steadily climbed up to a 4700m pass through switchbacks, switchbacks and more switchbacks, looking down from the top the road looked like plate of spaghetti. Just as we crested the summit of the pass the truck ran out of gas... oh well we though, it’s all downhill from here. We coasted for a while before running into an empty petrol truck which had just dumped its load and was returning to Huaraz. Our driver stopped the tanker and managed to get the drags of the diesel from its empty tanks. Luckily it was just enough to get the pickup running again and get us to Vaqueria. Here we talked to some other hikers who had just finished the trek from the other direction, and they pointed us in the right direction. We hiked for a couple of hours until we arrived at a campsite where we set up camp by the river. We weren’t exactly sure where we were on the homemade map we had, but we were hoping that we were at the right campsite. After a relaxing lunch and time to dry everything out in the sun a group hiked by and Pete found out that we were actually an hour and a half shy of the campsite we intended to be at. With only a couple of hours of daylight left we decided to tear down camp and make our way further up the trail. At the next camp we spent the night with a couple of other tour groups, and ran into our friend Sara who we had befriended in Vilcabamba. Day three, our biggest day. We left camp and made our way up to the top of the pass. The trail was very rocky and muddy, which made travel slow and difficult. Even though we had heavy packs we were still quicker than most of the other tourists who had mules carrying all of their gear. The hike was gorgeous and it just kept getting better the higher we got. Fortunately the weather was nothing but blue sky with no rain clouds to be seen. When we finally reached the top of the pass at 4750 metres we took a long break and enjoyed the breathtaking views. You could count at least 15 peaks most of them over 6000 metres. It was like nothing we’d ever seen before, absolutely amazing. After relaxing and soaking up the sun we made our way down to camp number four. From here we had views of Alpamayo, a classic mountain here in the Cordillera Blanco, amongst other jagged snow capped peaks. Day four: the hike continued downhill past a couple of lakes until we reached a marsh. From here you had two options, either the longer dryer route around the marsh or straight through. We opted for taking our boots off and cutting straight through the marsh. After a total of six hours on the trail we arrived at the final campsite, which sat at the base of a huge waterfall and next to raging river. The end of the trail was less than two hours away but we were tired and decided to spend the night. It didn’t take long to realize that the black flies here were unbearable. Karen discovered this while relieving herself in the bushes, at first she thought she had sat on a cactus but then realized that her bare ass was covered in blood thirsty black flies. We spent the rest of the day hiding in the tent until they died off at dusk. Day Five: The final day. Only an hour and a half of hiking and we were done. We grabbed a colectivo and made our way back to Huaraz where we satisfied our hunger with a $ 1.50 lunch menu. What an awesome 5 days in the mountains!!!

The Way Inn
After another night in Huaraz we headed up the hill to check out The Way Inn lodge. This beautiful stone lodge sits at 3700 metres with the Cordillera Blanca right in its backyard. An absolutely gorgeous setting! To top it off this place has hot water, a wood stove, trout pond and a wood heated sauna. We knew right away we’d be staying for a while in this mountain paradise. We spent our days relaxing, hitting up the sauna, hiking, and bouldering. We also treated ourselves to an awesome trout dinner, fresh from the pond. One day we checked out Laguna Churup, and also ventured up to Montana Churupita, a peak that sits at 5035 metres. It was a long day but we were entertained by Albert and Princess two cute dogs from The Way Inn who joined us and made the hike look easy. After a week in heaven we busted a move and once again were south bound. We stopped at our favourite cafe in Huaraz, Cafe Andino, for some wifi to say happy birthday to Karen’s dad and a snack, then made our way to the coast. On the way we looked for our lost hubcap but soon gave up after stopping three times only to find other hubcaps which didn’t fit our rims.

Click on a photo to enlarge and see the captions

Thursday, April 1, 2010

Ecuador Part II

Still in Ibarra...Lago Cuicocha and Volcan Cotacachi
After 2 days of testing, our mechanic #2, Bolivar, was still convinced that our problem was due to the ECU so we finally succumbed to tow #3 and took her out to see mechanic #3 Juan Carlos. Unfortunately it was Friday so we had another weekend to wait before we could get any info so we decided to go for another hike. One of the many volcanoes that had enticed us from Ibarra was Volcan Cotacachi so away we went. We took the bus back to Cotacachi and then a taxi ride to Lago Cuicocha and started hiking. After about 2 hours we reached a beautiful shelter on the crater rim and decided this would be a perfect spot for the night. We admired the lake with its two volcanic peaks in the centre while watching the fog roll in and then set up camp. This time we remembered cards to pass the time so we could stay up to a reasonable hour as it gets dark here around 6:30. Then in the middle of the night we were woken up by the sound of thunder nearby. We were a bit concerned as we were camping under a metal roof, but decided to wait it out. It was intense for awhile, but then started to fade away when all of a sudden the storm was on top of us. We scrambled out of the tent and stood there in indecision. Freeze our butts off in the rain or risk electrocution. Luckily the weather made our minds up for us and the storm moved off again, phewf! We had planned on waking up early to hit up the summit, but after our restless sleep we decided to sleep a little longer. We finally got up around 7 noticed that our metal roof was actually clay, packed up and headed off. We weren’t sure where the trail started, but there was a road that went up so up we went. 3 hours later we finally got to the trail head, but so did the fog. After a short prayer to the Virgin Mary for clear skies (see photos) we decided to see how far we could get. It was an awesome trail, but it just kept getting windier, wetter and more socked in the farther we went. After another 2 hours of hiking and scrambling we reached a camp where it was so windy we had to erect the group’s blown over tents. The weather was fowl and we still had to hike back down so reluctantly we turned around. It was a long hike out and about half way down the road, just as we were starting to think about how we could fly out the rest of the way a saviour in a jeep drove down and picked us up!! Even better he was heading all the way back to Ibarra!! It was two local hikers who had also been turned back due to snow a little higher then we’d gotten. Exhausted they dropped us off at our favourite grocery store where we stocked up and took a cab back to Graham’s. Monday morning we wanted to give the mechanic a chance to look at her so we decided to walk up to our favourite restaurant overlooking Ibarra with Oliver and Carina. We relaxed and enjoyed some awesome crepes and the beautiful views. Then Graham showed up and we went for a drive up and over the mountain. What an incredible experience. The people in these countries are so tough that they farm on nearly vertical slopes where I have no idea how the stand up let alone plant crops!! It was a beautiful journey and something that we wouldn’t have done on our own. Another benefit of being “stuck” in Ibarra. The trip ended up taking longer than we thought and by the time we were down the mechanic’s shop was closing, but he said to come tomorrow for a “test drive”. That sounded promising, but we didn’t want to get too excited. The next morning we woke up and headed out to pick up the van or at least figure out what was going on. When we got there we were handed the keys and told to take her for a spin....WHAT?!?!?! Could it really be that easy? We looked at each other and then jumped in the driver’s seat and sure enough she ran! We took her for a drive with one of the young apprentices and eventually the strange knocking stopped and we were set! He did something with the ECU and replaced all of our cracking fuel lines. Still not 100% sure what the problem was, but pretty sure something shorted out the ECU. We drove her back to Ibarra totally in shock that we were back on the road, arrived at Graham’s and started the long process of packing her back up.

Mitad del Mundo and Quito
As if in a dream 3 weeks, 3 tows and 3 mechanics later and we were finally saying our farewells. We were so lucky to have met Graham and had the opportunity to stay at his place. He is incredibly welcoming and has such a big heart. We learned a lot about the community and met a lot of the single mothers that he helps out. What a guy!! Karen’s brother Dan only had one request from this trip and it was that we take a picture of the equator for him so off we went on a detour. After asking a million people for directions we finally ended up on the right road to the Mitad del Mundo (Middle of the world). The first place we came to was the giant monument set up by gringos in 1979, but they were off by about 240m. Then we went to the IntiƱan Solar Museum built on the GPS calculated equator and enjoyed an amazing tour of not only cheap equator tricks like balancing an egg, walking a straight line, water going down the drain (straight down, counter and clock-wise), and strength tests but also a great tour of the different cultures in Ecuador. Our tour guide was an archeologist and loved his country so was super informative. We were also introduced to the art of head shrinking. An ancient practice no longer allowed on human heads, but still done on sloths and other animals. It was fascinating!! Although we were 2 days early for the big equinox celebration, bummer.

After a few hours we finally left the Equator and entered the SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE!! We got on an amazing highway passing through Quito and thought all was going to go smoothly until we hit a detour and were taken right into the heart of old Quito with it’s windy streets and one way streets that run into each other. We finally made our way out of the old part and were trying to find our way out of the city when the van started running rough and then died!! Luckily we were right beside a parking spot under an overpass and were able to coast in. CRAP!! Not only did it seem to be the same problem, but we were in the worst part of Quito a city we had no desire to visit and the sun was setting. Pete went to phone our helpful mechanic and Karen went to talk to a police officer about getting a tow. The police officer told Karen that because we were in a bad part of town no tow truck would come, what?? Luckily we then went to talk to a transit cop and he called for a police tow to come to our rescue. 15 minutes later our 4th tow arrived and we were driven around searching for an open mechanic shop. We drove around forever and then finally found an open door and were delivered into what would be our oily home for the next 2 nights. The owner kindly said that we could sleep in the lot, but told us not to go outside the gates at night because it was too dangerous. Our mechanic from Ibarra had told Pete that he was going to come and help us out on Saturday so we fended off the local mechanics and went to sleep. The next day our mechanic decided that he wouldn’t come until Sunday so we went to explore Quito. We wandered around for awhile and then ended up in a pub in mall land. Here we met Drew from Calgary who ordered us a pitcher and was great to chat with for the next couple of hours. So nice to take our minds off things. Back to our slum for another surprisingly good night sleep despite it also being a truck and bus parking lot for an early wake up to wait for our mechanic. After a bit of a communication problem he finally arrived at 9:30 with his entire family and got to work. After a short investigation he discovered it was our ignition coil that we’d just replaced before the trip with a cheap Chinese imitation part. He sent his family off to find us a real German part and we waited. They returned, he popped in the part and we were off and running again. We couldn’t believe it wasn’t the same problem, but were relieved it wasn’t. It was still early so we decided to get out of our grease pit and hit the road.

Quilotoa
Our original destination when we left Ibarra was Quilotoa so we got back on track. The route from Latacunga to Quilotoa was one of the most breathtaking drives we’ve done so far. Full of beautiful farmland, people and rolling green hills. We even picked up a local and he told us all about the different crops planted in the area. Then we arrived in the tiny town of Quilotoa and were greeted by all the friendly indigenous people there (who wanted us to buy their stuff) and went to look at the Crater Lake. You can’t see anything until you are right at the crater rim, but when you get there the view is breathtaking. We’ve seen a lot of crater lakes, but this one is stunning!! We wandered around taking pictures of the setting sun and fog and then met two other couples staying at one of the hostels. They invited us over for a drink and we all cozied up by the fire and chatted about travelling before heading back to the van for a peaceful night’s sleep. The next morning we met pack up with the rest of the group and took off for a 5 hour hike around the crater. It was a beautiful hike up and down ridges, through sand and farmer’s fields. By the time we got back it was starting to rain and we were all starving so we popped in for a bite to eat and then scammed the hostel’s shower before playing a rousing game of dice and enjoying an awesome meal. The next morning 8 of us piled in the van and headed back to the Panamerican. It was our first time with this many passengers, but Patience did awesome.

Banos
Next stop, the small town of Banos for a healing soak in the thermal waters. They were hot, awesome and very much needed. The next day we decided to rent bikes and go for a 30km waterfall tour. We passed tons of waterfalls, rode through and by 1km long tunnels and enjoyed some scenic detours. It was a beautiful ride, but way too long for Karen’s poor butt, hehehe. That night we treated ourselves to one too many amazing margaritas and had some mouth watering fajitas at the cutest Mexican restaurant.

Banos #2 and Cuenca
Just when we were raving about the roads in Ecuador we hit the road to Cuenca, yikes! Detours, construction and potholes. It took us 10 hours before we finally found a place to stay in Banos #2. It was a little more expensive then we were used to at $10 a person, but we got to use their hot pools, steam bath and hot showers so in the long run we got our money’s worth and more!! We’d originally been searching for a place we’d heard about near Cuenca so the next morning we resumed the search. Thank goodness we’d given up looking the night before because it took us forever to find! We eventually pulled into the unmarked driveway and headed in to explore Cuenca. It was a beautiful city, but everything seemed to be closed. We’d heard about some amazing climbing in the area so as always we went in search of the nearest climbing store where we always seem to encounter the friendliest people. This time was no different and at Monodedo we met Xavier, a fellow climber who offered us a ride home, a cheap canyoning tour the next day, a place to park and a chance to go climbing on Sunday...WOW!!! The next morning we got up early and went to meet the crew. It turned out we were going with the producer and star of an Ecuadorian adventure show who’d done the tour while filming and were coming back to take their American friend Chris on the trip. Since we were all experienced Xavier and his brother decided we should do the entire canyon instead of the normal route. Perfect! We drove and hiked up and to the start of the canyon and jumped in, literally. We were both starting to wonder what we’d gotten ourselves into especially since this was the coldest water we’d ever been in, but went with it. It was amazing!! We rappelled down 140ft waterfalls, jumped off rocks, slid down rock slides and shivered our way through 1km of beautiful Ecuadorian canyon. It was brutally cold and by the time we crawled out we were all shaking and turning blue, but were happy. We were all starving so Xavier took us to a steak house for the cheapest and best steak of the trip! Then we followed him back to his house where we met his family, bouldered around on his homemade wall and played board games with his son Amaru. Such a wonderful family and a dream home! The next morning we had a slow start and then met up with the gang to do some climbing. As always we were a bit sandbagged, but we struggled our way up a few amazing climbs and then went back to Xavier’s house for another night. The people that we have met on this trip have truly blown us away with their kindness and this was no exception. We have a lot of pay back to give when we finally get a house!

Vilcabamba
It was a hard decision to leave Cuenca, but fortunately the weather made it easy for us and we woke up to grey skies to push us on our way. Though not before we enjoyed a leisurely morning and big breakfast made in a real kitchen. The next destination was Vilcabamba and luckily the road was much easier to get there although we were now experiencing squeaky brakes. We hope that this isn’t due to the dodgy tow. Only time will tell. We arrived at the beautiful hostel Ishcayluma where they welcome overlanders into their parking lot with power, hot showers, a pool, beautiful views and awesome restaurant. We cooked up an amazing meal, had a glass of wine and unwound. The next day we scammed the awesome free breakfast and took off for a hike up to Mandango (the protective sleeping Inca) mountain for a little exercise and some amazing views of the valley. We managed to dodge the bulls on the trail and route find our way back to the hostel for a swim and a steaming hot shower. After an involuntary nap we went to the hostel bar and met up with three fellow travellers for a Caiprinia and a chat. The next day Pete went for a run and Karen enjoyed a super cheap 75 minute massage. That night we had an awesome German meal and then hung around soaking in the atmosphere. So nice!! We were going to leave the next day, but the facilities were so nice and it was time to get caught up on the blog so here we are hanging out one more day in paradise before another border crossing and our 11th country...Peru!!

Click on a photo to enlarge and see the captions.